Known to its Arab conquerors as the ‘Mother of Cities’, the city of Balkh in Afghanistan was occupied long before the arrival of Islam. In the 1 st millennium bc it was associated with Zoroaster, and Alexander the Great made it his base for operations in 329-327 bc. Balkh was a caravan city on the Silk Route from the east and a major outpost of Buddhism. Islamic Balkh flourished under the Samanids of Bukhara (873-999) and contemporary visitors mention two congregational mosques. The city was devastated by the Mongols in 1220 and Ibn Battuta reported that it was still in ruins a hundred years later. Balkh revived in the 15th century under the Timurid rulers of Herat. Although a section through the massive mud-brick defences revealed a long history of construction, we know very little about the pre-Islamic city. Two Islamic monuments survive: the Masjid-i No Gunbad and the shrine of Khwaja Abu Masar Parsa. The mosque is a mud-brick building, now roofless, with a square plan, 20 metres across, divided by piers into nine square compartments, each originally with a dome (hence the name ‘Mosque of the Nine Domes’). The interior contains exquisitely carved stucco decorated with vine scrolls, palmettes etc, reminiscent of 9th and 10th century stucco at Samarra, Siraf, and elsewhere in Iran and Iraq. The shrine, which commemorates a local theologian who died in 1460, has typical Timurid tilework.
The Macmillan dictionary of archaeology, Ruth D. Whitehouse, 1983Copied